West Cornwall’s hardest and unrepeated problems

I got thinking about the number of unrepeated  problems down in West Cornwall. Not many, but worthy of a list! As a starting point, I had a peek at the list from ‘hard bouldering in West Cornwall’, compiled by Barney Carver in 2006, found here.

It’s interesting to note that in the last nine years the hardest grade has only shifted up from 7C+ to a proposed 7C+/8A. Although the big 8A has popped its head up a couple of times. Dave Biggs Providence, at Godrevy was touted prematurely as an 8. As was Groove in the Heart at Clodgy. These both slid back into top end 7C.  However, it’s quite possible that 8A does exist in West Cornwall. Providence seems desperate to me, as does the recent power endurance addition Wonderland from Tom Bunn at Priests Cove. Press and news sites such as UKC seem to be sticking with the big grade on this one. I’d also stick my head up and suggest Barney Carvers Circumnavigation at Clodgy is an 8 (it’s certainly a sport 8). I’ve trundled my way round most of it, joining Andy’s Linkup V7 and Work in Progress V8, which must add up to V9 or 7C. Barney’s line takes in one more V7 and still only gets 7C – someone tell him he’s done an 8 of either persuasion!

So back to the unrepeated. From the original list I as of yet know of no repeats of Chris Hall’s Moves Me and John Fletcher’s Cave traverse at Helman, they have probably had repeats so we will wait and see.

Carn Brea’s Pond Wall and Yep SS are too easy for this list, but again are unrepeated as far as I know.

Injected Persistence at North cliffs has probably fallen down and Controvoscopy at Godrevy is an illusion, both are therefore unrepeated.

Beachball at Godrevy was shit and should never have existed. Big Red has been repeated, or should have been, I think I’ve done it.

The Minitower Traverse (a.k.a. Three Egyptians) was repeated by myself; same for Andy’s Link Up and Work in Progress, both by myself and a couple of visitors.

Dreckly at Bosworlas is so off the radar I have no news of it at all.

Double Beach Bed at Gywnver has I hope fallen down, maybe it looked good to the first ascentionists but looks horrible to me. There are some good problems down there but there are also some optimistic ones, complete with optimistic grading. For example, the Pea is most likely not 7C. Also down at Sennen, Mark Edwards White Wedding, mooted at V9 hasn’t had a recorded repeat. It’s a very long problem! I’ve done the crux section, going both left and right, between the arete and the crack, which seems more like a boulder problem.

So onto the list so far of problems awaiting repeats and grade confirmation of 7B and above in West Cornwall. I haven’t got much info for stuff further afield, so this list really only includes stuff that I know about in West Cornwall. Hopefully others can contribute, lets get this list complete?

Wonderland 7C+/8A, Priest’s Cove FA Tom Bunn

Circumnavigation 7C, Clodgy, FA Barney Carver.

Burnt Toast 7C+, Godrevy, FA Dan Varian.

Controvoscopy 7C, Godrevy, FA James Pearson.

Madeline 7B+/7C, Godrevy, FA. Andy Whall.

The Passage of Time, 7C, Godrevy. FA Dave Biggs.

Zennor Fool 7B+, Zennor, FA Andy Whall.

Needles in Your Eyes, 7B+/7C, Zennor Moor. FA Andy Whall. Takes the line right of Foreign Affair

Evening Song 7B+, Carn Brea, FA Andy Whall.

Injected Persistence, 7C, North Cliffs. FA Dave Biggs.


7 Comments Add yours

  1. Barney says:

    Hey Andy,
    Moves Me at Helman was repeated a couple of years ago by James Strongman and Max Dutson on the same day, and I did it the weekend after. Strongman’s also done Fletcher’s Cave Traverse. James’ Bodmin Queen is probably the hardest thing at Helman now (7c) but it’s been repeated by Tom Newberry. I’ve also repeated Dreckly, Injected Persistence and the sitters to Yep and Pond Wall that you mentioned. I was keeping that old list updated but a lot’s been done since I last added to it. I’ll try and send you a more up to date version sometime.

  2. blocspenwith says:

    Reblogged this on and commented:

    Cheers for the reply and info Barney.What grade did you think for Injected Persistence (any photo’s you know about of this problem). Mike Cleverdon has also repeated Pond Wall SS and Yep SS. So the list so far is getting shorter!

  3. blocspenwith says:

    Another for the list; Mad Hatter, Priests Cove 7B+, FA Mike Cleverdon.

    1. blocspenwith says:

      FA Tom Bunn, ‘Destruction in a Granite Setting’ – Font 7B Highball.


  4. blocspenwith says:

    Updated List.

    Wonderland 7C+/8A, Priest’s Cove. FA Tom Bunn

    Madeline eats Cake 7C+/8A, Godrevy. FA. Andy Whall.

    The Passage of Time, 7C+, Godrevy. FA Dave Biggs.

    Burnt Toast 7C+, Godrevy. FA Dan Varian.

    Injected Persistence, 7C, North Cliffs. FA Dave Biggs.

    Circumnavigation 7C, Clodgy, FA Barney Carver.

    Controvoscopy 7C, Godrevy, FA James Pearson.

    Double Beach Bed 7C, Gywnver

    Zennor Fool 7B+, Zennor, FA Andy Whall.

    Needles in Your Eyes, 7B+, Zennor Moor. FA Andy Whall.

    Evening Song 7B+, Carn Brea, FA Andy Whall.

    Mad Hatter, Priests Cove 7B+, FA Mike Cleverdon.

    Destruction in a Granite Setting, Cheesewring, Font 7B Highball. FA Tom Bunn

    The Weapon’ Font 7B+, Nan Julian. FA Tom Bunn

  5. chris says:

    Anyone repeated the gnome, 7b/+, carn vellan?

    1. blocspenwith says:

      Is that the one up the side of the boulder…Barney I think?

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